Skin Care News & Tips From Beverly Hills Dermatologist Dr. Kaplan

Moisturizers Spur Skin Cancers In Mice

A new study published August 14, 2008 revealed that Mineral Oil and Sodium Lauryl Sulphate, found in many common skin moisturizers, caused mice that were exposed to UV radiation to develop more, and larger skin cancer tumors.

This study is the work of Dr Allan Conney and researchers of Rutger University's Susan Lehman Cullman Laboratory for Cancer Research. They exposed specially bred albino mice to UV radiation twice a week for 20 weeks to examine the development of Basal Cell and Squamous Cell Carcinomas, or non-melanoma skin cancers. Then a portion of the mice were treated with over-the-counter moisturizers, such as Eucerin, Dermabase, Dermovan and Vanicream.

What they found was that mice treated with the moisturizers had increased tumors, and larger tumors, which developed at a faster rate than mice that were not treated with moisturizers. After further research, they concluded that Mineral Oil and Sodium Lauryl Suphate may have caused the increase in skin cancer tumors.

However, these studies were performed on mice only. Drugs that have caused a certain reaction in animals do not always have similar effects in humans. Further, more research must be done to verify these results and its effect on human skin.

To help prevent skin cancer in the first place, always remember to practice good sun protection, like wearing a wide-brim hat and long sleeves, and using sunscreen with a minimum SPF 15. Apply sunscreen at least 30 minutes before going outdoors, and look for products containing physical sunscreens, such as Titanium Dioxide.

Note: No kaplanMD Skincare Product or kaplanMD LIP 20 lip treatment contains either mineral oil or sodium lauryl sulphate.

Dr. Stuart Kaplan has been in private practice in Beverly Hills for over 22 years, and also serves as an Assistant Clinical Professor at the UCLA Medical Center for over 20 years.

kaplanMD Skincare Products Day Cream SPF 15  About Dr. Kaplan   LIP 20 Anti-Aging LIP Treatment

Time-Release Microsphere Technology

Because our skin is so good at keeping things out, most skincare products never penetrate the skin and stay only on the skin’s surface. As a result, skincare products have little impact because the skin is intelligently designed as a barrier to the external environment. Since our skin constantly sheds and regenerates, most products never have any long-term benefit, no matter how effective the ingredients used to create them.

Time-Release Microsphere Technology is the use of programmed microspheres composed of marine collagen to encapsulate active ingredients. These microspheres penetrate the skin’s outer layers and enable the transport of ingredients deep into the skin. Only kaplanMD Skincare incorporates this patented Microsphere Technology to transport an exclusive Phytogenic Triactive Complex, and other essential anti-aging ingredients, deep within the skin. Utilizing the best ingredients for all three types of skin aging, at their highest concentrations, kaplanMD has incorporated the most sophisticated new delivery technology to ensure your skin receives the maximum benefit from each ingredient.

HOW IT WORKS
As you apply kaplanMD skincare products onto your skin, the rubbing motion activates enzymes in "programmed" marine collagen microspheres. This causes a controlled time-release of active ingredients, as the product penetrates through the outer layers of your skin. This means every ingredient in the kaplanMD skincare line is delivered exactly where you need it most, and delivered slowly so the benefits are maintained throughout the day. The result is radiant, beautiful skin.

kaplanMD Science  Skincare Products

Keeping Pores Clean

I am frequently asked by actors and actresses what they can do to keep their pores clean when they have to wear heavy make-up while filming in 100 degree weather...

Keeping skin looking fresh requires a good skincare regimen. To keep pores clean and skin smooth, I recommend using a facial scrub 2 - 3 times a week. Look for exfoliants that contain very fine abrasive particles, such as date seed poweder or jojoba esters. I also recommend using a clay-based mask a few times a week to tighten pores and firm skin, but not on the same day you exfoliate. Doing both on the same day may cause overdrying.

And, like anything, preparation is key:

Before applying make-up, wash your face with a facial cleanser that fits your skin type.

Next, apply an astringent or toner with a cotton pad. A good toner will help refine pores while gently exfoliating dull skin.This helps prepare your skin for moisturizer.  Again, you need to use a toner that matches your skin type, but I suggest not using one that contains alcohol because it can be too harsh or overdrying.

Next, follow with a moisturizer with a minimum SPF 15. No matter how oily your skin is, you need to use some type of moisturizer to balance the dryness or harshness of the toner. You need moisturizer to balance your skin's oil production and SPF to protect your face from UV damage, which is the #1 factor in causing premature ageing (i.e. wrinkles, age spots, skin cancer, etc).

Moisturizer can also be considered a protective make-up base, so even though your make-up gets caked up in hot weather, you can be assured there is a 'protective' layer between your pores and the gunk. Acne sufferers should be aware that some thick creams can cause acne to flare.

LASTLY, try to wash off the caked-up makeup as soon as possible. Use a separate make-up remover, or a cleanser that can remove make-up.

Skincare Products  Skin Philosophy

3 Beauty No-Nos

While there are obvious beauty tips, such as wearing sunscreen even in overcast days, and taking care not to over-tweeze your eyebrows because the hair there has a tendency not to grow back, here are three tips that everyone should practice:

1.    Cuticles are on our nails for a reason. They act as a protective barrier to keep dirt and bacteria from collecting under the skin at the base of your nail.  Do not have them cut off or pushed back too far, or you risk a very painful infection called paronychia.        I see this happening often, even after expensive manicures. See your dermatologist for a prescription ointment and antibiotics.

2.    Pimples should not be treated like bubble wrap.    Do not pop them, even if they are blinking and screaming, "squeeze me!"  When you squeeze a pimple, you push stuff out the top, but also push more stuff deeper inside the skin.  This causes more inflammation, which leads to more pimples. By squeezing and picking, you also create a scab that takes 2 weeks to heal, instead of the three days it would have taken, had you not picked.

3.    Avoid drinking fruity beverages outdoors.  If the peels or juices of lemons, limes, and some other citrus fruits come in contact with your skin while you are out in the sun (think lime margaritas) you can get a blistering sunburn in those areas.  These fruits contain compounds called psoralens that dramatically increase your sensitivity to the sun. Affected patients don't realize the cause, and think they have developed brown age spots, or even worse, herpes.  So take precautions when enjoying your citrus beverages outdoors.

kaplanMD Skincare  New Lip Treatments  Make Online Appointment

Avoiding Winter Itch

Dry skin differs from normal skin due to the lack of cohesion of the stratum corneum. In other words, lumps of dead skin cells break off, causing scaling and peeling. This is caused by both environmental and biological factors.

Environmental Factors

Our external environment, such as the wind, sun exposure, air conditioning, dry heat, and decreased humidity causes chapped skin and dryness. While we can’t change the weather, here’s what you can do to help prevent winter itch:

1. Do not over-scrub or over-exfoliate during the

winter months with harsh soaps that contain large abrasive particles or acids. Overwashing removes the outer lipid layer, causing our skin to not hold onto moisture.

2. Don’t lick your lips. It increases moisture evaporation and causes your lips
    dry out and chap faster than normal.

3. Following a shower, gently pat dry with a soft towel. While skin is still
    moist, apply moisturizer to your entire body. This allows for better moisture
    penetration and retention.

4. It’s important to understand that foaming products do not clean better, but
    work to cover large surface areas. Cleansing Lotions are far better for dry
    skin because of the added moisturizing ingredients and direct contact with
    the skin.

5. Reapply moisturizer throughout the day. Your body warns you when your skin
    is thirsty by becoming dry and itchy. If you suffer from very dry skin, it
    would be helpful to use a humidifier in the house.

6. People sometimes confuse dry skin with irritated skin. Sometimes, one leads
    to the other so you can have a combination of symptoms, which need
    multiple angles of treatment. It is best to visit your dermatologist in this
    situation. 

Biological Factors

Dry skin is due to the level of moisture content in our skin. You have probably
noticed that your skin gets dry and scaly more frequently the older you get. The
reason for this is, as we get older, our skin thins and loses hyaluronic acid,
which keeps skin thick and helps in water retention. For example, a thick
sponge always holds more water than a thinner sponge.

Our skin also loses its ability to make our outer protective lipid layer, and loses
its elasticity. This causes our skin to become brittle and crack more easily. As
a result, our skin becomes more sensitive. You may have noticed that certain
moisturizers and fragrances that you’ve used in the past have suddenly become
very irritating.

Popular belief will lead you to believe dry skin can be regulated by drinking 8
glasses of water a day. This is not the case. Like everything, prevention is key
to controlling dry skin. In addition to the 6 recommendations above, look for
skincare products that contain high concentrations of potent anti-aging
ingredients that not only moisturize, but help build up skin thickness.

Skincare product ingredients to look for include hyaluronic acid, soy, peptides
and marine collagen. To help soothe irritated dry skin, look for products that
contain oatmeal, aloe vera and chamomile.

 Skincare Products  Benefits of Soy in Skincare   About Dr. Kaplan  TV Interviews

Lip Perfection

There are many different injectable fillers on
the market today.  Most can be used to shape and augment the lips. It is important to understand that every product is different, and has it own unique advantages and disadvantages.

For the best results, the right product needs to be matched for each individual patient.  Successful outcomes also depend on you choosing an experienced doctor with excellent injection techniques. Before suggesting tips on things to consider before making your appointment, here is a brief overview of the most popular, and newest, fillers available:

Injectable Fillers

Radiesse – a calcium based injectable filler, which is considered the longest lasting (may last a year or more). Works especially well in the nasolabial folds, the lines that run diagonally from the outer corners of the mouth to the nose. 

>>>Cost:  $1,000 per 1.3 cc syringe. Most times, only one syringe needed, but for deeper creases, and depending on the outcome you desire, you may need more than 1 syringe.

Sculptra - made from poly-lactic acid, which is a dissolvable material, similar to what dissolvable sutures are made from.  This material is best used to increase the volume of depressed areas, such as cheeks that are sunken in.   It can also be used to fill in any hollows on the face.  It is actually FDA-approved for HIV lipo-atrophy

>>>Cost: $1000 per bottle, and a bottle can usually fill in the entire face.  More than one treatment is usually required, and is done one month apart.

Hyaluronic Acids – brand names include Restylane, Perlane, Juvederm Ultra, and Juvederm Ultra Plus.  While acting as a filler, these agents also bind to water to keep skin molecules plump. The filler itself is soft and pliable, giving you a smoother, more natural result. No pretreatment or allergy testing is necessary. Restylane works best for medium wrinkles and lasts about six months. Juvederm Ultra can be used for fine lines, while Juvederm Ultra Plus works better for medium-to-deep wrinkles and folds, and can last up to nine months. Juvederm Ultra Plus is also an excellent, long-lasting filler for the lips.

>>>Cost: $500 - $600 for each syringe.

Collagen – brand names include Zyderm and Zyplast. Because collagen is obtained from the skin of cows, and a small percentage of the population is allergic to bovine collagen, you must have an allergy test done first. Zyderm is best for superficial wrinkles. Zyplast is better for deeper wrinkles, furrows, deep scars and lips. It lasts three to six months.

>>>Cost: Collagen injections cost about $250 to $550 depending on the size of the syringe. The allergy test costs an additional $75.

Additional considerations before going in for your cosmetic injections

1)    Inquire about the doctor’s skill and experience with the particular filler.

2)    Different fillers have different benefits and risks, and depend largely on a
       person’s facial features as well as personal preference.  Your doctor should
       evaluate your needs and recommend the best filler for you.

3)    Remember, what looks great on your friend, may not always be the best
       fit for you.

4)    Different fillers come in different sizes. For example, Radiesse comes in a
       1.3 cc syringe, while Juvederm comes in a 0.8 cc syringe. Your cost will be
       based on how many syringes you need to achieve your desired result. Keep
       in mind you may need more than 1 syringe.

                                                                * * * * *

Based on my personal experience, the perfect lip is the one that "wows" the patient and makes them happy with the procedure. Everyone is unique, and a reputable, capable doctor will approach each face individually to give the best possible cosmetic result.

For more information, or to make an online appointment with Dr. Stuart Kaplan, please visit www.SkinDoc.net.

Comparison of Fillers, Lip Treatments 

 

Skin Tips for Frequent Fliers

While in flight, your skin is exposed to dry pressurized air, which has no moisture. When humidity (the amount of water present in the atmosphere) is low, your skin will dry out faster. Long exposure to this dry, pressurized air causes skin to become dry, scaly, less radiant, and less supple. This leads to a very tired, haggard appearance upon landing.
One way to help avoid this is to apply a very rich moisturizer to the face and neck pre-flight. Drink non-carbonated water during the flight, and try to avoid alcohol and caffeine.  Caffeine is a diuretic that actually dehydrates your skin.

Upon landing, wash your face and neck, and apply a thin layer of the kaplanMD Perfecting Serum. This Serum contains a 50% concentration of hyaluronic acid, along with Sweet Pea, Licorice and Milk Thistle extract, which works to immediately hydrate, firm and brighten skin. If you land during the morning or afternoon, after applying the Serum, apply a light layer of moisturizer that contains a minimum SPF 15.

Celebrity Fans, Triactive Complex, kaplanMD Press 

Rosacea - The Red Mask

Acne rosacea is an inflammatory skin disease that affects about 14 million Americans between the age of 30 and 60 and is more common in women than in men. It is more likely to affect fair skinned people of European or Celtic descent. Rosacea is characterized by facial redness (erythema), bumps and pimples (papulopustules), and spider veins (telangiectasia). The condition is chronic and gets worse over time. It is cyclical and flares up for weeks and months and then subsides.

Triggers for rosacea usually involve anything that causes the face to become flushed, such as demanding exercise, sunburn, stress, anxiety, and sudden changes in temperature like moving from a cold to a hot environment. Other triggers arise from food and drink that cause flushing, such as alcohol, hot caffeine drinks (tea, coffee), and certain spicy foods. Rosacea can even be triggered by blushing with embarrassment.

However, a new study reveals that people with rosacea have high levels of an anti-microbial peptide called cathelicidin in their skin. This peptide produces certain proteins, which are not found in people who do not have rosacea. Another important contributor is an enzyme called stratum corneum tryptic enzyme, or SCTE.

Basically, the over-production of these two inflammatory proteins leads to high levels of a third protein that causes rosacea symptoms.

While there is no cure for rosacea, there are numerous treatment options available to control it. Many patients have had success with antibiotics, which work to inhibit the enzymes. But the best success rate has come from patients who undergo laser treatment. The new Sciton laser is equipped with precision frequencies to better target, penetrate, and erase the broken blood vessels found commonly on the cheeks and nose of rosacea patients.

For more information, visit SkinDoc.net

Peas n’ Skincare

As many of you have already noticed, Pea Extract has become a very popular skincare ingredient. But you are probably wondering, as many of  my patients have inquired, what exactly does this extract do for the skin.

First of all, it is important to know that the concentration of Pea Extract, as well as what part of the Pea Plant was used (i.e. Pea, Roots, Stem), yields a different effect on the skin. The majority of skincare products on the market today that contain Pea Extract, or pisum sativum extract, generally use a very low percentage to act as an added all-natural emollient. This provides a nice botanical moisturizer to the product. However, a new, highly advanced patented process puts the use as a moisturizer to shame.

The pisum sativum extract found in the kaplanMD Perfecting Serum (its patented brand name is Extraliss) is derived from the pea plant's roots and embryonic stem. What is derived from these parts is a type of protein, or extensin protein. The exciting thing about extensin protein is that it is plant-based, but has a similar composition to collagen. And collagen (one of the 3 main components of our skin and regulated by Estrogen) is responsible for giving our skin its strength and structure. In the course of skin aging, the polypeptide chains of collagen polymerize, or bind together. The result is "cross linking", which causes wrinkling of the skin as well as reduction in skin elasticity. So basically, as our skin ages, it loses collagen, which results in thinning skin, wrinkling, loss of elasticity and firmness. As a result, 'replacing' this collagen, is an ideal anti-aging solution.

The Pea Extract contained in the kaplanMD Perfecting Serum formula does not act purely as an emollient, as in most other skincare products, but the extensin proteins form an extremely flexible, film-like layer on top of the skin. This increases skin elasticity and firmness, while improving skin texture, smoothness and moisture. Combined with kaplanMD's Phytogenic Triactive Complex (of Soy, Grapeseed and Black Cohosh), which has been clinically proven to mimic the positive effects of estrogen on the skin, as well as balance the effect of hormonal imbalances on the skin, it helps to both preserve the collagen in the skin AND stimulate the growth of new collagen, making the kaplanMD Perfecting Serum the ideal anti-aging solution.

Organic Skin Care Products Beverly Hills

Sunscreen 101

With a myriad of new sunscreens hitting store shelves this summer, and the barrage of marketing hype over ingredients such as Mexoryl and Helioplex, patients are overwhelmed over which sunscreens to buy.

Here are some FAQs that may help you navigate those store shelves :

What is SPF?

The SPF, or Sun Protection Factor, is a numerical ratio based on the time skin would normally take to burn without a sunscreen. For example, if your skin burns in 20 minutes, an SPF of 10 would protect your skin 10 times longer, or for 200 minutes. However, while this might sound like enough protection, most experts recommend that you always use a sunscreen with an SPF 15 or higher.

Sunscreens with higher SPFs may give people a false sense of security, or a license to spend even longer time out in the sun. A sunscreen should be used to protect your skin from normal sun exposure during the day. it is not meant for you to abuse your skin even more. Remember, studies show sunscreens with high SPF numbers only give minimal extra benefits, but can also cause more irritation to your skin. It is more important to choose a sunscreen that you like and feels good on your skin, rather than choosing a heavy duty SPF 60 product that feels thick and sticky. Regardless of SPF 15 or SPF 60, all sunscreens should be reapplied every 2 to 3 hours.

What ingredients should I look for in a sunscreen?

When selecting a sunscreen, look for products labeled "broad-spectrum UVA and UVB” protection. The package should include a list of active ingredients. Look for physical sunblocks, such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. These ingredients work by actually deflecting sunlight away from your skin, and are much more effective sun protection than chemical sunblocks, such as Avobenzone, octocrylene, and oxybenzone.

How thick should I apply my sunscreen?

If you are wearing a bikini or swimming trunks, you will need to apply at least     1 ¼ ounces of sunscreen (a little more than a shot glass) to effectively protect all exposed skin. Spread on sunscreen at least ½ millimeter thick, and let it absorb into your skin at least 30 minutes before going outdoors. Also remember to reapply every 2-3 hours.

Do I have to wear sunscreen on a cloudy day?

Even on a cloudy day, roughly 80% of the sun’s UV rays pass through the clouds. In addition to using sunscreen, it is highly recommended that you wear a hat, a light long sleeved shirt to protect your arms, and sunglasses while outdoors. Also remember to apply sunscreen to your ears, neck and upper chest (décolleté). The latter are often-overlooked areas in terms of sun protection, but are equally susceptible to photoaging, as well as skin cancer.