Skin Care News & Tips From Beverly Hills Dermatologist Dr. Kaplan

Keeping Pores Clean

I am frequently asked by actors and actresses what they can do to keep their pores clean when they have to wear heavy make-up while filming in 100 degree weather...

Keeping skin looking fresh requires a good skincare regimen. To keep pores clean and skin smooth, I recommend using a facial scrub 2 - 3 times a week. Look for exfoliants that contain very fine abrasive particles, such as date seed poweder or jojoba esters. I also recommend using a clay-based mask a few times a week to tighten pores and firm skin, but not on the same day you exfoliate. Doing both on the same day may cause overdrying.

And, like anything, preparation is key:

Before applying make-up, wash your face with a facial cleanser that fits your skin type.

Next, apply an astringent or toner with a cotton pad. A good toner will help refine pores while gently exfoliating dull skin.This helps prepare your skin for moisturizer.  Again, you need to use a toner that matches your skin type, but I suggest not using one that contains alcohol because it can be too harsh or overdrying.

Next, follow with a moisturizer with a minimum SPF 15. No matter how oily your skin is, you need to use some type of moisturizer to balance the dryness or harshness of the toner. You need moisturizer to balance your skin's oil production and SPF to protect your face from UV damage, which is the #1 factor in causing premature ageing (i.e. wrinkles, age spots, skin cancer, etc).

Moisturizer can also be considered a protective make-up base, so even though your make-up gets caked up in hot weather, you can be assured there is a 'protective' layer between your pores and the gunk. Acne sufferers should be aware that some thick creams can cause acne to flare.

LASTLY, try to wash off the caked-up makeup as soon as possible. Use a separate make-up remover, or a cleanser that can remove make-up.

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Avoiding Winter Itch

Dry skin differs from normal skin due to the lack of cohesion of the stratum corneum. In other words, lumps of dead skin cells break off, causing scaling and peeling. This is caused by both environmental and biological factors.

Environmental Factors

Our external environment, such as the wind, sun exposure, air conditioning, dry heat, and decreased humidity causes chapped skin and dryness. While we can’t change the weather, here’s what you can do to help prevent winter itch:

1. Do not over-scrub or over-exfoliate during the

winter months with harsh soaps that contain large abrasive particles or acids. Overwashing removes the outer lipid layer, causing our skin to not hold onto moisture.

2. Don’t lick your lips. It increases moisture evaporation and causes your lips
    dry out and chap faster than normal.

3. Following a shower, gently pat dry with a soft towel. While skin is still
    moist, apply moisturizer to your entire body. This allows for better moisture
    penetration and retention.

4. It’s important to understand that foaming products do not clean better, but
    work to cover large surface areas. Cleansing Lotions are far better for dry
    skin because of the added moisturizing ingredients and direct contact with
    the skin.

5. Reapply moisturizer throughout the day. Your body warns you when your skin
    is thirsty by becoming dry and itchy. If you suffer from very dry skin, it
    would be helpful to use a humidifier in the house.

6. People sometimes confuse dry skin with irritated skin. Sometimes, one leads
    to the other so you can have a combination of symptoms, which need
    multiple angles of treatment. It is best to visit your dermatologist in this
    situation. 

Biological Factors

Dry skin is due to the level of moisture content in our skin. You have probably
noticed that your skin gets dry and scaly more frequently the older you get. The
reason for this is, as we get older, our skin thins and loses hyaluronic acid,
which keeps skin thick and helps in water retention. For example, a thick
sponge always holds more water than a thinner sponge.

Our skin also loses its ability to make our outer protective lipid layer, and loses
its elasticity. This causes our skin to become brittle and crack more easily. As
a result, our skin becomes more sensitive. You may have noticed that certain
moisturizers and fragrances that you’ve used in the past have suddenly become
very irritating.

Popular belief will lead you to believe dry skin can be regulated by drinking 8
glasses of water a day. This is not the case. Like everything, prevention is key
to controlling dry skin. In addition to the 6 recommendations above, look for
skincare products that contain high concentrations of potent anti-aging
ingredients that not only moisturize, but help build up skin thickness.

Skincare product ingredients to look for include hyaluronic acid, soy, peptides
and marine collagen. To help soothe irritated dry skin, look for products that
contain oatmeal, aloe vera and chamomile.

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