Skin Care News & Tips From Beverly Hills Dermatologist Dr. Kaplan

Moisturizers Spur Skin Cancers In Mice

A new study published August 14, 2008 revealed that Mineral Oil and Sodium Lauryl Sulphate, found in many common skin moisturizers, caused mice that were exposed to UV radiation to develop more, and larger skin cancer tumors.

This study is the work of Dr Allan Conney and researchers of Rutger University's Susan Lehman Cullman Laboratory for Cancer Research. They exposed specially bred albino mice to UV radiation twice a week for 20 weeks to examine the development of Basal Cell and Squamous Cell Carcinomas, or non-melanoma skin cancers. Then a portion of the mice were treated with over-the-counter moisturizers, such as Eucerin, Dermabase, Dermovan and Vanicream.

What they found was that mice treated with the moisturizers had increased tumors, and larger tumors, which developed at a faster rate than mice that were not treated with moisturizers. After further research, they concluded that Mineral Oil and Sodium Lauryl Suphate may have caused the increase in skin cancer tumors.

However, these studies were performed on mice only. Drugs that have caused a certain reaction in animals do not always have similar effects in humans. Further, more research must be done to verify these results and its effect on human skin.

To help prevent skin cancer in the first place, always remember to practice good sun protection, like wearing a wide-brim hat and long sleeves, and using sunscreen with a minimum SPF 15. Apply sunscreen at least 30 minutes before going outdoors, and look for products containing physical sunscreens, such as Titanium Dioxide.

Note: No kaplanMD Skincare Product or kaplanMD LIP 20 lip treatment contains either mineral oil or sodium lauryl sulphate.

Dr. Stuart Kaplan has been in private practice in Beverly Hills for over 22 years, and also serves as an Assistant Clinical Professor at the UCLA Medical Center for over 20 years.

kaplanMD Skincare Products Day Cream SPF 15  About Dr. Kaplan   LIP 20 Anti-Aging LIP Treatment

Keeping Pores Clean

I am frequently asked by actors and actresses what they can do to keep their pores clean when they have to wear heavy make-up while filming in 100 degree weather...

Keeping skin looking fresh requires a good skincare regimen. To keep pores clean and skin smooth, I recommend using a facial scrub 2 - 3 times a week. Look for exfoliants that contain very fine abrasive particles, such as date seed poweder or jojoba esters. I also recommend using a clay-based mask a few times a week to tighten pores and firm skin, but not on the same day you exfoliate. Doing both on the same day may cause overdrying.

And, like anything, preparation is key:

Before applying make-up, wash your face with a facial cleanser that fits your skin type.

Next, apply an astringent or toner with a cotton pad. A good toner will help refine pores while gently exfoliating dull skin.This helps prepare your skin for moisturizer.  Again, you need to use a toner that matches your skin type, but I suggest not using one that contains alcohol because it can be too harsh or overdrying.

Next, follow with a moisturizer with a minimum SPF 15. No matter how oily your skin is, you need to use some type of moisturizer to balance the dryness or harshness of the toner. You need moisturizer to balance your skin's oil production and SPF to protect your face from UV damage, which is the #1 factor in causing premature ageing (i.e. wrinkles, age spots, skin cancer, etc).

Moisturizer can also be considered a protective make-up base, so even though your make-up gets caked up in hot weather, you can be assured there is a 'protective' layer between your pores and the gunk. Acne sufferers should be aware that some thick creams can cause acne to flare.

LASTLY, try to wash off the caked-up makeup as soon as possible. Use a separate make-up remover, or a cleanser that can remove make-up.

Skincare Products  Skin Philosophy

Lip Perfection

There are many different injectable fillers on
the market today.  Most can be used to shape and augment the lips. It is important to understand that every product is different, and has it own unique advantages and disadvantages.

For the best results, the right product needs to be matched for each individual patient.  Successful outcomes also depend on you choosing an experienced doctor with excellent injection techniques. Before suggesting tips on things to consider before making your appointment, here is a brief overview of the most popular, and newest, fillers available:

Injectable Fillers

Radiesse – a calcium based injectable filler, which is considered the longest lasting (may last a year or more). Works especially well in the nasolabial folds, the lines that run diagonally from the outer corners of the mouth to the nose. 

>>>Cost:  $1,000 per 1.3 cc syringe. Most times, only one syringe needed, but for deeper creases, and depending on the outcome you desire, you may need more than 1 syringe.

Sculptra - made from poly-lactic acid, which is a dissolvable material, similar to what dissolvable sutures are made from.  This material is best used to increase the volume of depressed areas, such as cheeks that are sunken in.   It can also be used to fill in any hollows on the face.  It is actually FDA-approved for HIV lipo-atrophy

>>>Cost: $1000 per bottle, and a bottle can usually fill in the entire face.  More than one treatment is usually required, and is done one month apart.

Hyaluronic Acids – brand names include Restylane, Perlane, Juvederm Ultra, and Juvederm Ultra Plus.  While acting as a filler, these agents also bind to water to keep skin molecules plump. The filler itself is soft and pliable, giving you a smoother, more natural result. No pretreatment or allergy testing is necessary. Restylane works best for medium wrinkles and lasts about six months. Juvederm Ultra can be used for fine lines, while Juvederm Ultra Plus works better for medium-to-deep wrinkles and folds, and can last up to nine months. Juvederm Ultra Plus is also an excellent, long-lasting filler for the lips.

>>>Cost: $500 - $600 for each syringe.

Collagen – brand names include Zyderm and Zyplast. Because collagen is obtained from the skin of cows, and a small percentage of the population is allergic to bovine collagen, you must have an allergy test done first. Zyderm is best for superficial wrinkles. Zyplast is better for deeper wrinkles, furrows, deep scars and lips. It lasts three to six months.

>>>Cost: Collagen injections cost about $250 to $550 depending on the size of the syringe. The allergy test costs an additional $75.

Additional considerations before going in for your cosmetic injections

1)    Inquire about the doctor’s skill and experience with the particular filler.

2)    Different fillers have different benefits and risks, and depend largely on a
       person’s facial features as well as personal preference.  Your doctor should
       evaluate your needs and recommend the best filler for you.

3)    Remember, what looks great on your friend, may not always be the best
       fit for you.

4)    Different fillers come in different sizes. For example, Radiesse comes in a
       1.3 cc syringe, while Juvederm comes in a 0.8 cc syringe. Your cost will be
       based on how many syringes you need to achieve your desired result. Keep
       in mind you may need more than 1 syringe.

                                                                * * * * *

Based on my personal experience, the perfect lip is the one that "wows" the patient and makes them happy with the procedure. Everyone is unique, and a reputable, capable doctor will approach each face individually to give the best possible cosmetic result.

For more information, or to make an online appointment with Dr. Stuart Kaplan, please visit www.SkinDoc.net.

Comparison of Fillers, Lip Treatments